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Sue - Wen news, the fashion industry is not so much shocked, as that sorry. Tom Ford - the crossing of the 20th century and 21st century design masters, handsome image of the industry was nicknamed "fashion Prince", he 10 years, will be forgotten a veteran bankruptcy reborn into a $ 2 billion market capitalization fashion kingdom . Described by Tom Ford Gucci girl temptation is always full of shocking, YSL also Yanyaqunfang not make fashion fans disappointed. Karl Lagerfeld bluntly: "Gucci wrong, like Tom Ford this design talent and business acumen have been very few mergers and talent, he can not be replaced."
However, if the route is very focused brand, style is very unique, the total design skill becomes trivial matter. If the production team is weak, then the designer brand of star power to decide the fate of almost. Gucci's success, Star Media contributed: Tom Ford's boyfriend is a former editor of Vogue Homme, Gucci can be said that the album was the most frequently chosen journal clothing brand, is the red carpet zeeman regulars. Ever since Tom Ford took over Gucci and YSL since, the industry has been by Tom Ford for Gucci "and" by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche zeeman "to say these two brands. But in contract negotiations in March 2003 during the exhibition zeeman in Milan, press releases issued by the company, asking the media to say "by Gucci" and "by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche", obviously fashion fans hope to reverse the impression that, Tom Ford's departure zeeman at that time is emerging.
If the brand team's strength is strong enough, easy to master not the end. For example, Chloe but had Stella McCartney reproduce light, but Stella McCartney Touxiao own brand Gucci Group, by the deputy Phoebe Philo took over Chloe but more fluent freely dissipate femininity and rock mood. Easy to master after a well-known brand in the speed of decline, are often difficult to reverse the style is too deeply rooted, or the design and operation of the brand itself imperfect structure due. Jil Sander after the founder of the exodus, the loss of a large number of loyal customers. Prada bigger reason is the parent material cost reductions, while the extravagant zeeman use of materials has chosen Jil Sander brand is the biggest selling point. Today, I hope she "phoenix nest" to revive zeeman the brand, this former "minimalist Queen" tailoring skill unmanned underestimated, but in awareness and sales network are the ordinary case, a fancy wind today to revive the brand in the end it somewhat odds?
The same designers, the same group, and sometimes zeeman is not the same story, but once again shows that the more entrenched the harder brand transformation, on the contrary, the more the more easily be forgotten stand. 70s-known Gucci, to 94 years because of poor management and design hesitant verge of bankruptcy. Tom Ford stepped in, in 1995 spring and summer series with extremely bold and sexy cut, dazzling MOD blurred zeeman image of the young black male so just reborn zeeman into neutral le smoking sexy, seductive. Investors feel abandoned in poor circumstances, he and Group CEO Domenico de Sole two-pronged approach, takes the plunge and make Gucci re-energized.
In fact, John Galliano and Christian Dior Dior combination also began in chaos when the big boss of LVMH support makes painfully brilliant achievements accident. White Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton brand altogether break a new garment Hong Chong Road. They were both star flavor, so hit the fashion industry (Fashion Darling). The difference is, John Galliano's personal brand achievements ordinary, but in the Dior star of very high profile; Marc Jacobs's personal brand popular in the Louis Vuitton they know how big the next light low profile zeeman of the individual, to heighten the LV class label . This is the brand and the designer fame balanced way.
It is said that Ford and de Sole in terms of the main contract to fight for more autonomy in management and board of directors could not agree with the group. The requirements of the "autonomy", including not only Gucci brand management and design autonomy, but also involves the acquisition of Gucci Group brands in recent years and future expansion. But financial analysts are familiar with operating funds are aware, in 1999 LVMH Gucci resisted vicious acquisition, PPR inject 2.9 billion dollars repel LVMH and Gucci Group became the majority shareholder, and in order to continue to invest in Gucci, PPR two years, large-scale reform of its company structure, sell office furniture and other industries long. Business is business, it is clear that in the Gucci PPR to the absolute master. Loss of Tom Ford and Domenico de Sole although risky, but PPR in operating decisions handed it over to control more impossible.
In the stock market crash, 911, SARS, the dark shadow of war in the Middle East, Gucci sales declining in recent zeeman years, YSL praised by Tom Ford and Domenico de Sole personally cultivated or acquired Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bottega Verneta Gucci and other hard to move Fashion brand myth mode, although the industry still praise, zeeman sales were mostly satisfactory. If we tell you, Tom Ford annual salary zeeman of up to 23 million dollars, one in April 2003 and May between Tom Ford Gucci shares held by it earned 38 million dollars, the first half of last year, Gucci can profit fell year earlier than 51%. Corporate profits slump, but the total salary rose design, this phenomenon of substandard business logic is difficult to make shareholders convinced.
Gucci Group brand among the first to get rid of too similar business model, Gucci and YSL will obviously were taken over by the two designers. zeeman Gucci designer, Gucci's optimistic about the industry opt for Alexander McQueen: Although he is a famous rebellious kid, but since the Gucci Group, LVMH defected after leaving mature a lot. Another candidate, but also the overall design of Gucci Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquiere, style tends dimensional cut, surge in popularity in recent years, can be described as a new generation of Fashion zeeman Darling.
Tom Ford at Gucci after news of his resignation, Yves Saint Laurent in a telephone interview without violate words to say: "This zeeman is best and I do not appreciate that kind (refer to Tom Ford designed YSL series) costume, zeeman he did not comprehend I am the essence now while he has not been destroyed, YSL brand and salvation. "Masters in Saint Laurent zeeman and his longtime partner Berge minds, Holland popular duo Viktor & Rolf YSL is the best overall design zeeman candidates. They show the 04 spring and summer, zeeman feminine and neutral coexistence, black tuxedo or shoulder, strapless, suspenders zeeman unique design, tailoring varied and beautiful, in a way it is the 21st century YSL.
Many designer brands serve others, often as early as before accession own personal brand, such as LV, Marc Jacobs, Celine's Michael zeeman Kors, etc., once you leave, personal development series away loyal customers, it is impossible zeeman restricted zeeman " non-competition agreement. " Pierre Balmain Paris Fashion brands serve the Oscar de la Renta and after the expiry of Pierre Balmain, Balmain a whole batch of the original class
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